Starting in the 1520s, the Toluca Valley, west of Mexico City, was evangelized by the Franciscans; during the 1550s and 1560s a network of missions was built, radiating out from their monastery of San Francisco in the city of Toluca.
Of these early missions, the monastery at Zinacantepec, begun in 1550, is one of the best preserved, as are the variety of distinctive early murals that adorn several of the monastery walls.
The Open Chapel
The oldest portion of the monastic complex, dating from the 1560s, is the spacious open chapel which is integrated into the arcaded portería that fronts the convento to the south of the church..
Recessed behind the larger center arch of the elegant five-bay arcade, the chapel takes the form of a substantial niche framed by an archway of cut stone. Its flared sides lead the eye inwards to the newly restored 17th century altarpiece mounted on the rear wall.
Of special interest to us, though, are the flanking murals on the angled side walls of the chapel. Earlier than the retablo and possibly dating from the late 1500s, these two large panels picture St. Francis preaching to the birds and fishes and receiving the Stigmata opposite. Now in fair condition, both panels appear to have been originally monochromatic, with the blue and rust tones added later.
Anteporteria
Inside the main entrance is a vestibule which leads to the main courtyard of the cloister. A magnificent 16th century mural, set above the low main door into the cloister, is known as the Tree of Life. Employing the traditional Tree of Jesse format common to other Mexican murals of this variety, it illustrates the history of the Franciscan Order and its martyrs.
The tree grows from the chest of the reclining St. Francis. St. Clare of the Second Franciscan Order emerges from a flower above him while various Franciscan saints and martyrs issue from flower/clouds on the many branches.
Unlike the other frescos, this one appears to have been originally polychrome, the colors including red and green accents, flesh tones and framed by bands of color. 
The Cloister
Faced by Tuscan arcades the cloister has two floors and now houses the exhibits of the Museo Virreinal de Zinacantepec.
Several large rectangular panels along the corridors have been partially restored. They largely consist of monochrome depictions of prominent saints, including Peter and Paul, martyrs like St Lawrence and St Sebastian, as well as a portrait of the Virgin with many of her attributes.
Although the finely drawn outlines of the figures are clear, much of the original background detail has been lost, giving them an isolated appearance.
There are also some surviving but again, incompletely restored Passion scenes including a Flagellation and large, faded Calvary scene with three crosses in color?
In addition to the narrative murals, Zinacantepec boasts a variety of mural ornament in the form of polychrome friezes, grotesque bands and patterned wall decoration.
text © 2019 Richard D. Perry images by the author and Niccolo Brooker
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