The grand basilican monastic church of San Francisco at Zacatlan in the Sierra Norte of Puebla, is among the most distinctive early colonial churches in Mexico, of special note in this relatively isolated region. Its plain, broad front, anchored by steeple like towers, provides an ideal backdrop for the imposing, classical west doorway cut from dark, volcanic tezontle.
With its light, lofty arcades, the airy, late 16th century basilican interior has suffered major alterations and damage from fire over the centuries. However, recent restorations in the church have uncovered fragments of unusual colorful frescoes beneath the many layers of whitewash.
These once extensive murals covered parts of the nave and much of the apse/sanctuary—and possibly date in part from the late 1500s when the Franciscan chronicler Fray Juan de Torquemada was supervising the completion of the church.
Colorful painted medallions in folkloric style have emerged from a former frieze between the arches along the nave.
Because only a fraction of the original murals have been uncovered, revealing a variety of styles, the full extent and nature of its program, if any, is unclear.
While there are vestigial portraits of Franciscan and other saints—including St. Francis and St. Christopher (above)—but it is the anecdotal details, especially of animals, that has excited the attention of researchers; these include native deer, jaguars, rabbits and bees, as well as genre village scenes with Spanish and indigenous figures.
Deer Jaguar
Rabbit and honey? gatherer Hunter with bow and arrow
Painted arches and passages of floral ornament have emerged, as well as paired Calvary scenes with three draped crosses and what appear to be hermits in caves.
Sections of complex, burnt orange, foliated dado friezes have also been uncovered along the lower nave walls, that may once have framed larger narrative murals yet to be uncovered?
mural images courtesy of Niccolo Brooker and Natalia Rivera Scott
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