Yucatán: The Cholul murals

Located just beyond the spreading suburbs of Mérida, the state capital, San Pedro Cholul is a colonial gem, its classic T-plan mission set in a meadow like atrium with two standing stone gateways. Like most of Yucatan's churches, Cholul started life as a simple 16th century open air chapel with a belfry and thatched ramada. This was succeeded in the 1600s by an imposing stone church—essentially the one we see today.

Cholul, the Sanctuary arch mural before restoration

During restorations * beginning in the 1990s, a dramatic variety of vivid polychrome murals was uncovered throughout the church, previously hidden beneath a 19th century whitewash cap. 

   Believed to date from the late 1600s or early 1700s, this group of recently restored frescoes is dominated by a visionary scene of the Coronation of the Virgin. In a complex composition reminiscent of the doorway mural of the Virgin of Izamal as well as those of the apsidal fresco at Dzidzantún, this mural originally spanned the entire archway above the sanctuary—formerly the open chapel and now the apse of the church.

   Mary is shown seated at center surrounded by the Holy Trinity and accompanied by a celebrating multitude of apostles, musical angels and other religious figures rendered in a forthright folkloric style. 

Cholul, the Sanctuary arch mural after restoration

The Apsidal Murals
Beyond the sanctuary arch in the apse itself, several other mural passages have been revealed, some superimposed on earlier painting, including the remains of a painted wall retablo. Blue robed angels appear on the decorated side walls.
The most notable surviving fragments include polychrome scenes of saints Peter and Paul undergoing martyrdom.

 

The Painted Arches
Peter and Paul reappear in their more customary poses beneath the sanctuary arch below what seems to be a Garden of Eden scene including the voluptuous figure of Eve? amidst a riot of tropical vegetation.

  

Processions of much retouched saints and martyrs line the piers and arches along the nave, along with angels bearing the Instruments of the Passion. The bold placement, vigorous draftsmanship and rich coloration of these figures is enhanced by the addition of greens and yellows to the usual palette of reds and blues.

 

    

In addition to the figural murals, segments survive of colorful friezes and painted niches.

Cholul, cactus frieze

* Restorations were completed during 2005 and 2006 by INAH Yucatan under the direction of maestro Fernando Garcés Fierros with the patronage of the active Yucatán chapter of Adopte una Obra de Arte

text © 2018 Richard D. Perry
images courtesy of Adopte, Niccolo Brooker & Robert Jackson