Sunday, October 1, 2017

San Pedro Etla: the cloister murals

As an addendum to our series on the murals of Oaxaca * we now look at the unusual cloister murals of San Pedro Etla.
The grand mission of San Pedro Etla dominates the Etla Valley, north of the state capital. Its vast church, twice the size of neighboring Huitzo and notable for its imposing front and massively buttressed nave, was only completed in the early 1600s.
The convento boasts a long, arcaded porteria and a handsome cloister in classic Dominican style with tall, vaulted arcades faced with projecting "prow" buttresses. While the lower cloister may once have borne frescoes along the walks, no traces now remain. 
However, the cloister is noted for its four spectacular corner vaults, which offer a brilliant display of intricate baroque stucco work in the Pueblan style, similar to those at Santo Domingo in the capital, encrusted with Dominican fleur-de-lis crosses set in ornate cartouches.

Below the vaults, painted portraits of apostles and Dominican saints & martyrs appear in the eight supporting lunettes. These include eminent saints like St. Peter and St. Andrew, together with lesser figures like St. Ambrose of Siena, Blessed Henry Suso, Blessed Ceslaus of Poland, and even St. Elmo holding a ship.
   Here we illustrate six of these portraits, all dressed in Dominican habits and wearing rosaries:
 
St. Elmo;                                                            St. Ambrose of Siena;
 
Blessed Henry Suso;                                                   Blessed (Wen)Ceslaus of Poland; 
 
St. Vincent Ferrer?                                                          Blessed Jacobo Salomoni
text & images © 2016 Richard D. Perry, except where noted.
closeups of individual saints © Niccolo Brooker

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